A recent trip to Istanbul part 1

Whenever I go away, UK or somewhere more exotic, I write up notes in  journal. I never can shake off the awkwardness of looking back at old diaries and cringing at your musings, but I feel writing up my travels will help me remember later in life and as you're generally doing lots of activities, your FEELINGS aren't really at the fore. 

I thought I would start putting these notes on here, probably not in full, we'll see. Some might be quite post-dated but last week I returned from Istanbul so I shall start there. 

My and my boyfriend can be pretty shocking at time keeping, so managed to arrive at T5 allowing us 45 minutes to drop off bags, collect currency, go through security before our flight left, mmm stressful. We actually did a similar thing on the way back as well, you think we'd learn. 

We arrived into Sultanahmet around 6pm and managed to find our hotel relatively easily. After a quick unpacking on my part (I always unpack, regardless of how short the stay), we headed out to dinner. We  found a nice route around the back of Aya Sofya through Gulhane Park - we tended to go this way for the rest of our trip, the park was always nice and relaxed plus generally full of locals  hanging out with their families which is always pleasant to see.

Our first stop was Galata Bridge as we thought it would look pretty special at sunset although as it was cloudy, we didn't get that desired photo moment.  However, it's still a great place to people watch from the bobbing boats selling fish sandwiches, the carts hawking hot corn and chestnuts to the countless locals fishing from the bridge. We could see Galata Tower in the distance and the shores of the Asian side of Istanbul. 

We had dinner at Hamdi Restaurant near the New Mosque, its signage clear from several feet away.  Hamdi has some history, the owner started out with just a cart in the 60s and expanded it to the 5 storey restaurant where we ate our meal that night. The food (mainly kepabs) was good, and after dinner we walked back another way, taking us through İbni Kemal Caddesi which was bustling with restaurants. We detoured to the Blue Mosque before hitting our hotel, there was many people sitting on the benches outside taking a moment and talking with friends. Our hotel backed on to Akbiyik Caddesi which again was heaving, but was much more touristy and we spotted the first of many stray cats. 

The next morning we awoke to rain and thunderstorms so we decided to switch our itinerary around and do indoor things instead (I  had wanted to space out our numerous boat trips but oh well). Breakfast was lovely, they had honey that looked straight form the hive and tasted amazing, coming from someone who doesn't like honey.

We had prebooked tickets for Aya Sofya (you didn't have to date your ticket which was a great help), so the queue was much shorter to get in. We wandered through the Imperial Door into the central dome, there was some construction work (apparently there always is, but then it was built in 537). The dome was still a spectacular sight and I loved the chandeliers - the glass almost looked like bell jars - and the calligraphic roundels. We didn't stop to stick our fingers in the weeping column (there was a queue), and headed to the upper gallery to check out the mosaics. 

After a couple of hours, we left and headed to the Basilica Cistern which was built around the time of the Aya and was the Istanbullis way of bringing water into the city. It was very calming underground, with lots of carp swimming in the water and quite beautiful too. We checked out the Medusa statues before walking over to the Grand Bazaar area for some falafel and my first aryan yoghurt drink. I felt the Bazaar's interior was a lot better than the actual wares on sale - these tended to be repetitive and leaning towards tat in places, however, I did keep on spotting lovely ceramic bowls. We left the Grand Bazaar via the Old Book Bazaar which had a charming courtyard and walked alongside the University before roughly meeting the Spice Bazaar. A man called 'Hi ginger' at mine, but generally I felt the sellers in Istanbul weren't very pushy - which was a refreshing change. After some lovely teas and spices, we started recognising things from the Grand Bazaar stalls so poked our heads outside when we heard the New Mosque's Call to the Prayer resounding in the sun. 

We took the train from Cankurtan to Servici not realising it just went 1 stop and then terminated. So we walked over the Galata Bridge and into the Tunel funicular. From there, we strolled up Istikal Cad to Taksim Square just before it started to get dark. There was lots of people around, not just at the camp, kids were selling swimming goggles and painting masks. We didn't think it was appropriate to go into the camp so after taking it all in we headed down the strip to dinner. On the way down, lots of locals were heading in the opposite direction chanting and cheering. We meandered around side streets, before coming across Sofyali 9 - I had chicken shish with some lovely meze. We'd missed the last funicular so walked down the steep route by Galata Tower before jumping on a tram. After noticing a lot of sea gulls circling the blue mosque, we got onto what makes albatrosses so special, apparently they are so big, i'm unconvinced there is not more to them. 

Weasel face

On Monday night, I went to see 'Behind the Candelabra', I'd heard good things about the film but wasn't actually that familiar with Liberace before. 

Michael Douglas was incredible, so different to how I've seen him before and just got everything right in his subtleties - even if it the character itself wasn't very subtle. 

Enjoyed Matt Damon's performance too but wasn't as blown away, Rob Lowe makes a hilarious plastic surgeon who is suffering from the hedonist ways of that era. 

Recommended!

Polymath weekend

So last weekend was slightly James Franco themed, whilst in town for an eye test (my first in about 12 years and yes, I need glasses now), I popped into his Pace Gallery exhibition 'Psycho Nacirema'. 

It was inspired by Psycho - he recreates the Bates motel - and the 20s scandal surrounding Fatty Arbuckle - which I wasn't familiar with previously. 

I found the whole exhibition a little pointless however and the excessive red paint was a little GCSE Art. 

The next day, I had tickets to see him introduce Hitchcock's Psycho at the BFI - as part of their Screen Epiphanies series. He spoke for longer than anyone else I've seen there and it was mostly him talking as opposed to a Q&A. Listening him to talk did make me think better of the exhibition slightly, he seems to be a  fan of art as a concept than as content. 

Franco explained that when Gus Van Sant remade Psycho, he wanted to re-create it frame for frame - focus on the shots opposed to the dialogue - and the film would have worked a lot better if Hollywood hadn't spent so much money on it and it remained more of an art house project than an entertainment project. Psycho was made after the critical and commercial success of Good Will Hunting, so Van Sant was allowed to do anything. I haven't seen the film myself, but I do feel that re-making a movie by frames would lend itself a lot better to a piece of art than a film (not that films aren't art, but you know what I mean!) as you're potentially not bringing enough to the table to justify a remake. 

Anyways, Hitchcock's Psycho was great! 

Grief

Last night I went to The National to see 'Grief', a new play by Mike Leigh.

I was expecting the play to be set in the current day, something I associate with Leigh films (without having seen that many) but it was actually set just after WWII. The script had me and my flatmate in giggles but it was also a very moving story about loneliness.

On a side note, on the way home, I read that Mike Leigh had picked up Best Director at the Evening Standard Theatre Awards... I haven't seen enough plays this year to judge.

Forbrydelsen II

The return of this year's most compelling TV show - The Killing - was last Saturday. I eagerly watched the double bill with my sister and a plate of mozzarella. I was disappointed to hear this series was only 10 episodes, but I'm sure it will pack an equal punch.


This Friday sees the launch of The Long Table on Dalston Roof Park, it's a food market at night with Hawksmoor, craft beer, Big Apple Hot Dogs, Yum Buns, Nuno Mendes and much more.... Yum

Looks like the rest of my weekends up to Christmas might revolve around Dalston Roof Park and BBC4.

On another food note, as recommended by Cuizine, I'm going to hit up Luca's on Saturday for some meatballs. He's based in Ridley Road Market. The recently relaunched Cuizine is a great site for interesting and entertaining encounters with food.

Did it blow?

Right, I'm back after nearly a year - well good at this blogging lark, aren't I?

I thought about creating a new blog on tumblr or something (arf), but couldn't be bothered and am sticking with this one.

Went to Busaba for the first time last night, had a very disappointing pad thai - the mussaman duck curry was lovely though.

Then headed to see the Robert Glasper Experiment at XOYO. The Experiment part was a little too much for me, really not a big fan of vocoders - I think Chromeo are the only ones that got away with it, they actually made it work for them - but I did enjoy the more core instruments. Would like to have seen his solo show at the Southbank but oh well!

Anorak is heading to Lucky Voice tonight, I've never been, but do love karaoke so am pretty psyched.

Interval

So I've decided to try harder to keep at this...

After a delightful Christmas (Die Hard should be on every year)
New Years was spent in Diss, Norfolk - good food, lovely walks and lots of games courtesy of Toby Price - alpaca alert!

Then there was Fela at The National Theatre (don't ever want to see a theatre audiece shaking their hips again), Tom Wrigglesworth at the BBC Studios, Jonny Sweet at The Soho Theatre, The Wild One at The Phoenix, The Big Sleep at the BFI, BUG at the BFI (the videos weren't as good this time), a ski lesson in Hemel Hempstead (I didn't fall over!), Bob Le Flambeur at the BFI (Hello Jonathan Ross), Alex Winston at Bush Hall, The Dogs at Wimbledon's Stadium and a delicious roast at Mason & Taylor.